Flowing through the jungles and plains of Assam, a cruise on the Brahmaputra offers the ultimate Indian riverboat adventure. Grania Brock sets sail

"Why on earth are you going to Assam? It’ll probably be terribly uncomfortable!” Friends were sceptical when I told them we were off to cruise the Brahmaputra River in north-east India. “Won’t you have trouble with the food?” they asked. How little they knew.

Assam is the chunk of India you tend to forget, lying beyond Bangladesh and bounded by Bhutan, Tibet and Burma. We set off from Guwahati, the state capital, and drove through countryside alternating between jungle-clad hills and farmers’ fields bustling with bullocks and wooden ploughs. (Could I ever fit a huge Assamese farmer’s hat – ideal for my gardening – into my luggage? I fear not.)

The sky was turning a glorious pink as we finally arrived at the Charaidew, moored in splendour on a sandy beach. We were greeted by the crew’s big smiles and the boat’s spacious cabins; minutes later, sitting in a comfy chair with a welcome drink, it was time to relax.

The next morning we cruised up the wide river, farmland to our left, Kaziranga National Park to our right. Elephants can sometimes be spotted here, so we installed ourselves on the sundeck, binoculars in hand. It was beautiful and exotic, but no elephants appeared this time. No matter – the sun shone and, by late morning, the Himalaya poked their peaks above the clouds.

Our next stop was the little temple town of Vishnath, where our excellent guide gave us a mini-tutorial on Hinduism. Back on the boat, the ever-smiling staff were waiting to whisk away our dusty shoes for cleaning. I was in danger of treating this sybaritic lifestyle as the norm.

The following day was spent entirely on the river, thrilling at the curves of Gangetic dolphins playing off our sides. Once moored, we watched the crew stage a lively game of football on the sandy beach. We jumped ship next morning for a jeep safari in Kaziranga. The early start was well worth while: we saw one-horned rhinos – huge beasts with thick armour – and, with the help of our on-ship ornithologist, many birds. Each day introduced a memorable experience – and each night served up a delicious feast; one evening we moored on a sandbank and ate kebabs under a vast canopy of stars.

The cultural highlight was Majuli, the world’s largest river island, famous for its Hindu monasteries where we watched the monks, dressed up to the nines, dancing and drumming. Our peaceful mooring near the ferry allowed us to watch as cars, cattle, bicycles, people, vegetables – you name it – were loaded onto wooden boats.

After the final day’s excursion to Sibsagar, the old capital of the Assamese kings, we boarded the Charaidew for the final time. Our sadness at packing was eased by a wonderful farewell dinner, where we thanked all those who had made our trip so special, not least the chefs who had fed us so royally. So the culinary verdict? The only trouble with the food was leaving it behind.

BRAHMAPUTRA

The Bales way

Hop on board the RV Charaidewor her sister ship the RV Sukapha for a classic riverboat experience on one of the world’s mightiest rivers. Recline in comfort as you float past the intriguing temples,national parks and vibrant towns of Assam. Cruising on the Brahmaputra Inspirational Journey.
Call Bales in India on 0845 057 1819.